Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 19:01:11 -0500
From: Dunn wdunn@SUFFOLK.LIB.NY.US
Subject: Stearns Method for Pinewood Derbies
Catching up on my Scouts-L digests, I noted the discussion about the Stearns method for Pinewood Derbies. I'd like to weigh in with a solid vote for the Stearns method over double-elimination derbies. Rather than waste a lot of bandwidth here, you can check out our Pack's Home Page, which has complete information about the origin of the Stearns method and how to conduct a derby using it. There is also a hypertext link to an FTP site that will download a program that will develop the necessary number of heats and lane assignments to conduct the derby. The variables in this program are number of racers, number of lanes, and the time desired to complete the race - as you can see it is quite flexible.
For Stearns method information, check out:
http://members.aol.com/houraweek/pack339/339home.html
YIS, Bill Dunn (HourAWeek@aol.com or wdunn@suffolk.lib.ny.us)
CM, Pack 339 - ASM, Troop 345 - Port Jefferson Station, Long Island, New York CRT
Commissioner, Nathaniel Woodhull District, Suffolk County Council "I used to be an
Eagle ..." NE-II-73
Date: Mon, 19 Feb 1996 00:21:50 -0500
From: "Timothy K. Morris" tmorris@BIX.COM
Subject: Re: pinewood control program
If the Stern's method is the one I found over on the rec.scouting group a few months ago, I agree 100%. In case I have the name wrong, a brief description. The method we used, for the first time, assigns each racer a number. The racer gets a tag with the number on it to hold or wear. Hanging tags with the numbers are randomly on a "heat" board in groups of however many lanes you have, with the last two or three heats adjusted so no fewer than three racers compete in any given heat (assuming a four lane track). The heats are run and the 2d, 3d, and 4th place finishers are moved (again, the tags are hung randomly) to the 2d place column on the heat board. First column is regrouped, randomly, into heats. Then the heats from the second column are run and 2d, 3d, and 4th place finishers are moved to the third column, and so on and so on until done. The only disadvantage we found was you wind up knowing the single 1st, 2d, and 3d place finisher in that order. We did den races (using the single elimination method) as warm up, and then ran 64 Cubs to completion in two hours.
If this is not the "Sterns" system, someone let me know and I'll see about getting permission to post the message that describes it here.
Tim
tmorris@bix.com (Checked a lot) tmorris@tir.com (Checked minimum 3xWeek)
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 17:23:29 -0500
From: Fran Carchio stallion@POSTOFFICE.PTD.NET
Subject: Re: Tips for Winning Pinewood Derby
I remember our first Derby, my son opening his kit and seeing this block of wood, four nails, and four wheels. I said to my son, "Well buddy, I guess we're supposed to turn this stuff into a car". We called that first one "The Screaming Eagle". He had a cockpit cut out and a windshield from a model car glued on. I didn't know what to do for weight so I unscrewed this Eagle from one of my bowling trophies, took everything to the Postoffice and got them weighted. Everything was about 4 1/2 oz.. We came home and glued the eagle into the cockpit, what a sight. I looked at those nails and wheels, and I looked and looked. Finally something clicked. Well, with that silly looking car we won our first Pinewood. The first three cars in our Pack went on to Districts. I learned a quick lesson, some people know how to build cars. We were out of competition before I could say "We made it to the District Races".
The second year rolled around and we built "The Roadster". As usual, my son did the car with the side view mirrors, windshield, exhaust pipes, radio antenna, etc.. Hey, it was his car, I wasn't going to tell him what to do and he wasn't going to tell me what to do with the wheels and nails. I got those things and I spun and spun and spun.... until the night before the race and finally put them on the car. OK! First place in Pack again and off to the Districts again, only this time feeling bigger and better. I forgot one thing, Some People Really Know How To Build Cars. We were blown off again. I decided, next year my boy is going to be in that winners circle, it will be our last chance. We will become Some of those people that really know how to build cars.
Here we are Year 3 now a Webelo, both of us two years older and I hope two years wiser than when we first saw that block of wood and nails. We kept our same responsibilities, he had the car and I had the wheels and weight. Yeah, we were wiser. He didn't put windshields and mirrors on, and I didn't put on bowling trophy Eagles. He wanted to spray it with lacquer, five coats. He never sprayed before and had runs and drips, and for the first time I was going to interfered. He set it down to dry, thinking he did good. When he went to bed I set my alarm for 5am, got up, sanded the drips and runs, and sprayed a light coat of lacquer so it would dry before he got up to check it. He never knew. Only problem was he wanted five coats. Yup, five days of getting up at 5am, sanding drips and runs, and spraying lacquer. Let me tell you, you can really get a buzz on breathing that stuff at 5am. Well it was finally finished, shinny, slick, and smooth as a baby's..... it looked like it was speeding just looking at it. I ask him what he wanted to call this one and he said "The Teardrop". I said "Neat" thinking he meant it's shape. He said "No, that's what it's going to bring to the eyes of everybody that has to run against it". I said "Neat". That's what it did but we lost first place in the Districts by a very controversial finish. The Electronic Timing Device was removed and the final race judged by eye. Could you imagine the three fastest cars in the District judged by eye. It hadda be a dead even heat at the finish line, but somebody called a winner. Anyway, if it should ever come to anyone's mind that Some People Really Know How To Build Fast Cars, in year 3, my son and I made it. We are now "Some People".
When I finish with this lesson about Velocity, Friction, and Inertia, you will see your car screaming down that incline, picking up that extra 7" of Velocity, and no matter how close any other car is at that time, your car carrying maximum weight, and all the friction fighters you use, will have Inertia push it on the level part through the finish line and slam it into whatever device is at the end of the track to stop the cars. Better have extra axles and wheels on hand.
That beginning sounded a little melodramatic, but if these hints are followed correctly..........Hmmm! Can all that happen!!!
Let's start with the Design of the car. It's important, but not the most important thing. Let the boy design it to his liking. Try to make it aerodynamic and leave a lot of wood in the back. The simple wedge shape in the instructions is the quickest and easiest. You'll have to hollow out the wood in the rear and fill it with Lead. Molten lead or liquid lead is easest. I don't have time now to explain how to do that. Ask around. Postoffices will always let you check your weight with their scales. If the weigh in scales show your car overweigh, ask if you could do the drilling, then drill off some lead, not wood.
You are dealing with three scientific laws. Friction, Momentum (Inertia), and Velocity. If you gain a fraction of a second with each hint, you will cross that finish line in style. Let's deal with Velocity first.
In the 16th Century, Galileo proved that Objects of different weight will fall at the same speed. Record has it that he dropped them from the Tower of Pisa. It doesn't matter if you shoot a gun, level with the ground, and drop a bullet at the same time. Both bullets will hit the ground at the same time. Same as the Pinewoods rolling (falling) down the incline. In a no friction atmosphere (vacuum), the front of all cars would reach the bottom of the incline at the same time, no matter how much they weight, or the placement of the weight. Remember, I said the front of the cars. Now for a lesson in Velocity (rate of motion). A falling object will increase it's speed at the rate of 32.17 feet per second per second until it reaches Terminal Velocity, that's no typo, it is per second per second. It means that an object keeps increasing it's speed by that rate. The longer it falls, the faster it's rate of motion. Now let me explain the importance of placement of weight in the rear of the car. The block of wood for the car is 7" long. When you design your car it is very important that you do not, I repeat, do not alter that 7". I don't know how big your track is or what angle the incline is, doesn't matter. Science applies itself the same. If you would measure the track from the starting gate to the bottom of the incline (where the track levels), that's the distance the cars fall and gain speed. They can't gain speed on the level part. If you don't have the speed at the bottom of the incline, ain't no way you're gonna get no more. Now lets say you put two cars at the starting gate, one car with the weight in front and your car with the weight in back. Do you know what's going to happen? What did you learn so far? Well, before I told you to measure the distance from the gate to the bottom of the incline. All cars will fall the same distance at 32.17 feet per second per second. Go back to the cars and mesure from the weight to the bottom of the incline. This will tell you the distance that the Weights will fall...... Yours will fall 7" farther than the other because it's weight is 7" farther away from the bottom of the incline before the gate opens. Look back to the part where I said "the longer it falls, the faster it's rate of motion". Well, at the bottom of the incline both cars are falling at their fastest speed when the front weighted car stops falling and you continue falling at that fastest speed, and increase it by 32.17 feet per second per second for another 7". Does that mean anything? You bet it does. Have you ever sat near the finish line at a Pinewood Derby? If you did, you noticed how close some of those races are. Do you think falling an extra 7" at 32.17 feet per second per second might make a difference? If so, put that weight in the rear.
WARNING: DON'T TAKE SO MUCH WOOD OFF THE FRONT THAT YOUR FRONT WHEELS CAN'T STAY ON THE GROUND. In fact I'd use the groove closest to the end as the rear axle holder.
OK, now for the most important and hardest part, FRICTION.
Earlier I mentioned about Galileo with different weights falling at the same speed and hitting the ground at the same time. If that's true, why is weight so important in a Pinewood Car. Well a bowling ball and a feather won't hit the ground simultaneously, but a bowling ball and a golf ball will. Why? Friction, the air has too much friction for that feather to fall. Now roll the bowling ball and golf ball down a grass hill that levels off and remains grass. Lots of friction there. Which ball will roll faster and farther? The bowling ball. Why? Inertia (Momentum). Remember their meaning? A body in motion will remain in motion until it is stopped by friction.....or sumptin like that. Well, Friction is an enemy of motion and weight is an enemy of friction. It's harder to stop a big truck than a sports car. OK, now we know why we need maximum weight, where to place it, and why.
One obvious point of Friction are the Axles and Wheels. The instructions that come with the kit tell you this. Be patient, don't put the axles on and spin the wheels yet. Since the wheels are plastic, some may have a nub on them from the mold. Lightly rub your finger around the part of the wheel that will be touching the track. If you feel a nub, that's a Friction point. Remove it gently with a very fine grade sandpaper. You don't want to remove more then the nub or you'll create a flat spot (Friction) that you can't fix. You'll have to get another wheel. If you don't feel any nubs, leave the wheels alone, every other important part on that wheel is as smooth as possible. Now pick up an axle and look behind the Head. You will see two braces going from the shaft to the head. Bad Friction points and must be removed, some are worst than others depending on your kit. The best way to remove these is with a lathe if you have one or know someone who does. Get a good smooth 90 degree corner. Should look like this ------| . If you don't have a lathe, use a drill. Put the axle in like a drill bit and use a file. Be careful not to remove too much from the head or shaft. The smoother that corner and the back flat side of the head, the better. The biggest friction headaches are; wheels bumping the center strip (the car must go as straight as possible) the more it bumps the slower it goes. Wheels rubbing against the car body, and wobbling wheels.
Let's get to work fighting these types of Friction. Place an axle in each wheel and get four sheets of paper. Using no graphite, pick an axle and wheel. With the wheel down and slightly off perpendicular, spin it. Time the spin, and write that time on a sheet of paper. Do this with all four. When you place them on the paper, make sure the nail is pointing up and the wheel is flat on the paper. You will never remove these nails again. Get the graphite and place some between the wheel and the nail head, also a little between the axle and wheel. Begin spinning the wheel, very slowly at first to settle the graphite, then gradually increase the speed of rotation. Each time you spin a wheel at full speed record the time. DO NOT USE A DRILL AS SHOWN IN THE INSTRUCTIONS. THE DRILL SPINS TOO FAST AND THE AXLE WILL CREATE HEAT THAT MAY DAMAGE THE WHEEL. Anyway, you don't want to spin the axle, you want to spin the wheel. Put more graphite on and spin and record again. Try to be consistent with the force of your spins so you can accurately record the times. Do this with each set about 5 to 10 times, two or three times a day until you see no further increase in their times. Then spin them once a day until you're ready to put them on the car. The car must be completely finished before you install the axles. I hope you never removed an axle during this process. With all that spinning, the axle and wheel are matched to each other along with their times. Look at the spin times and pick out the fastest set. Use that as the right rear set. Now take the second fastest and place it on the left rear. The third fastest on left front and the slowest on right front. You don't want your car zig zaging down the track or running against the center strip all the way down because of wrong wheel placement.
Next Tip, you want the wheels as far apart (width) as you can. The rules allow 2 3/4
inches. don't go over that, you can be disqualified or have them bumping into the car in
the next lane. When you install the axles, make sure they are square to the car body or
you'll ride the center strip all the way. Maximum Friction, sure loser.
________ | | |-----|=======|-----|
I don't know how to draw in ASCII
| | | | | | | | |-----|=======| -----| |_______|
______ | | ==> |-----|_______|-----| <===
Keep the axles at a slight upward angle so that the wheels are slightly raised. I can't draw the angle in ASCII.
Remember the wheels are 2 3/4 inches apart (outside to outside). The axles are 90 degrees to the body and slightly raised. All these things play an important part. The raised axles immediately force the wheels to the outside when the car starts to move. This does a few things. The wheels are set to the maximum distance from the center strip. If the car hits the strip it will go farther down the track before the other side hits, less hits less friction. It also keeps the inside part of the wheels from rubbing against the wood on the car (much friction), instead the outside smooth graphited part is rubbing against the smooth graphited metal of the back part of the nail head (very little friction) and no wobbling wheels.
When you're sure you have the wheels and axles correctly placed, glue them solidly, being extremly careful not to get any on the axles past the edge of the car.
Your team is now ready to let the other cars taste your dust and see only your car's back end as they pass the finish. That is if you did everything correctly and carefully.
Give me some feedback on what you think and how you finished. Also, was this car faster than your others? Was there anything I forgot? I had to do this in a hurry.
With all the races just around the corner, I had to hurry. This is about the best I could do within the time factor. I was thinking about making it bigger and better to try and earn a few bucks for pin money in my retirement. Ya know, maybe a faster modem, better printer, etc..
Ciao for now, Fran
Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 11:35:11 -0600
From: Stan Hodge STANH@MAIL.TDOC.TEXAS.GOV
Subject: Tips for Winning Pinewood Derby -Reply
>>> Why do you need weight? Galileo proved that objects of different weights fall at the same velocity. He performed this experiment at the Leaning Tower of Piza. If Galileo proved weight has nothing to do with velocity, why is maximum weight so important in the Pinewood?
Another question. Where do you place this weight? Top, bottom, front, back, middle, evenly distributed.... and why? Only one is correct.
>>> Having had six sons go through the scout program I have built quite a few of these things and learned a couple of things in the process (in our last year in cubbing we took both first and third place).
Heavier cars go faster. Galileo was talking only about a vertical drop (and then technically, I believe, in a vacuum). Here we are dealing with an inclined plane reducing ultimately to a flat. I am not a physicist, but there must be formulas for this kind of thing. Watch the cars with no obvious construction faults like a sticking wheel. They all hit the end of the constant incline about the same time (as you would expect from Galileo). In the flatter to flat part of the course, some cars seem to just "take off" from the competition. In lay terms I would guess that heavy cars have more stored energy -- that is they slow down more slowly. In Galileo's terms a heavy weight and a light weight dropped from the same height would reach the ground at the same time, but the heavier one would do more damage.
Where? Since the race is actually a series of controlled crashes between the front wheels and the track you don't want it in the front. My guess is to put it as close to the rear axle as possible to increase the distance between crashes.
Stan Hodge Scout Roundtable Commissioner Tejas District Capital Area Council Austin Texas Ciao for now, Fran
Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:07:59 CST
From: "Runnels, Barry C" Barry_C_Runnels@MMACMAIL.JCCBI.GOV
Subject: Pine Wood Derbys
I don't normally respond to many discussions because I am here as a student. But I also have a lot of experience with Pine Wood Derbies with my two boys. Stan is right, Galileo was talking about two objects in a vacuum or no air. Out of the vacuum we have air resistance so weight is very important because gravity pulls the car down the incline or track. The more weight, the greater the pull.
The secret to fast cars is removing as much resistance to the gravity pull as possible. I believe that most of the resistance in Pine Wood Derby cars is in the wheels aginst the tracks and axles in the wheels. Polish the axles until they look mirror smooth. Remove any nubs that stick out on the inside of the axle heads. Even out the insides and outsides of the wheels to smooth them out. If the sides of wheels are uneven, the car tends to get thrown from side to side. Every time the wheels hit the side of the track, that causes friction and slows down the car. Do not narrow the wheels because that's against the rules for most Packs.
If your rules allow it, use lots of powered graphite on the axles and both inside and outside of wheels. The wheels are going to touch the track, so keep the friction to a minimum.
There is more said about where to place the weight than any other tip I read about and I beleive the least effect. My Physics Professor friend agrees. In the last four years, the weight was in a different place on each first place finisher. And one of these cars took first at the District races "weight was in middle". The only car I have seen that the weight placement made a difference is a car that put all the weight in the very back. when the car hit the first bump in the track, the front wheels came up and the car never finished. This was dads idea and he took it hard.
We are a very active Pack, but the Pine Wood Derby is always one of boys favorites. I think its because we try hard to get the dads involved and the boys love watching there dads get excited. But I also notice the dads take the losses much harder than the boys. Also we try to get every boy as close to the track as possible with out them interrupting the race. I let the Webelos start the cars and run the cars back to the starting line with a adult watching very close. And I encourage the boys to get excited by cheering and yelling for their car. I try to get them very envolved in every race. Make this a family event. If they are involved and having fun, then no matter what the car does, the boys feel like they win.
Happy Racing
Barry Runnels Cub Master "Mighty" Pack 339 Edmond Oklahoma.
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 03:17:13 -0500
From: "Michael F. Bowman" mfbowman@CAPACCESS.ORG
Subject: Re: Pinewood Derby
Chris,
In an ideal world each Cub Scout with a LITTLE help from his parents would build his own car growing in self-confidence at his ability to learn and use new skills. In the real world there are all too many parents that are so focused on the car winning that the Cub may never do more than watch the car being built. I've even seen cases where a Dad was afraid to let the Cub handle the car, fearing it would get damaged. Sadly these eager parents are depriving their sons of a wonderful chance to grow, learn and just plain have fun.
A wonderful solution used successfully by many Packs (including my own when I was Cubmaster) is to have a Derby Day that features morning Cub Competitions, Parent Races, Sibling Races, Grudge Matches and Funny Cars. You know how much trouble it is to get the track set up and working well, so why not take advantage of it once its set up and at the same time see to it that every Scout has fun, win or not.
When we used this approach some families purchased as many as four kits! The wonderful thing was that Dad, Mom and other family members were so busy perfecting their cars, they didn't have time to ruin the Cub's chance to make his own car. There were a few exceptions, but a lot less than in just a cut and dried Pinewood Derby.
The Parent races were dead serious with some of the best looking cars you ever saw. Brothers and sisters had a wonderful time too.
The grudge matches were a hoot. Cubs were allowed to pick and challenge anyone. The Cubmaster's car got a real workout and routinely lost. :-(
The funny car races had to be seen. We saved these for last to keep everyone in good spirits at the end. We had one that the Cubs dubbed the Elvismobile. The car was covered with three colors of glitter under several coats of verathane to keep it smooth. The underside was hollowed out nearly to the top to form a battery compartment. The rear end had a hole large drilled large enough to place a flashlight bulb in about 1/4 from the surface. A translucent plastic flame was inserted into the hole and lit up when the car was switched on. Small diodes were used for head and tail lights with requisite interior channels (tough to drill). Another car had a flashing red light on top. Still another funny car had a internal rubber band drive that caused a propeller to spin on top of the car, hence helo-car. Another car was made in pieces that were stuck together with glue stick. At the bottom of the track the car literally exploded into pieces and had to be reassembled later. The Cubs really liked that one. We even had one that made sounds. A parent had taken a sound greeting card apart and then put the sound components into the car.
We had awards for the parent, sibling and funny car races too. For the funny cars the award was a set of donated amusement park tickets given to the car voted by the Cubs to have been the most fun to watch. The Elvismobile came in second to the exploding car. Nobody wanted to leave until the last car had been tested on the track.
Of course, if you do this, you really have to pump up everyone to participate and give them plenty of ideas. Doesn't hurt to challenge a few folks too.
Hope this will give you a few ideas for rollicking good time.
Speaking Only for Myself in the Scouting Spirit, Michael F. Bowman a/k/a Professor Beaver (WB), ASTA #2566, OA Vigil Honor '71, Eagle Scout '67, Serving as Deputy District Commissioner for Training, G.W.Dist., Nat. Capital Area Council, BSA - mfbowman@capaccess.org
Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 21:42:57 -0600
From: Rick Covington rcovingt@CCMAIL.DSCCC.COM
Subject: Pinewood Derby Tips.
Hello Scouters,
I've debated in replying to the list on this subject. For many of us scouters we promote the concept of the boy making the total car. But for those dads that want to build a winning car for the 'adults race' I will offer a few more tips.
Materials:
Pinewood Derby Kit extra wheel kits small triangle file cloth sandpaper, 600, 400, 200, 150, 80 0000 steel wool crocus cloth rubbing compound pumice arbor tool for spinning the wheel in the drill motor. Avery 5/8 inch diameter labels
Tip 1 First thing, order the booklet "How to build cars and rockets" by Hugh T. Hodges from Hodges Hobby House Box 3923 Glendale, Ca. 91201. (818-845-6123)
Tip 2. Order a bottle of Hodges moligraphite. It is little balls of graphite, it does not cake up. Important for later use.
Tip 3. Shape the body into a thin wedge shape. The rear of the car has the axle slot nearest the end.
Tip 3a. If race rule allow, lengthen the wheel base. Longer wheel base runs faster.
Tip 4. Add weights up to 5 oz. There was a very good discussion on the location of the weights. Position them to the rear. I like to have the car's center of balance about 1.25 inches in front of the rear axle. Drill hole in the side behind the rear axle for the round weights. Add wood putty to cover. Route out enough clearance for the flat 2.2 oz plate weight under the car.
Tip 5. Axles The Pinewood Derby kits supply nails for axles. But you have to use them. Using a drill motor, chuck each axle and spin slowly to determine 4 straight nails. It may be necessary to buy a couple boxes of spare wheels to find 4 straight ones.
Under the head of the nail, there are a couple of burrs. I use the triangle file to remove, but instead of maintaining the 90 degree angle between the head and nail body, I like to remove about 15 degree to reduce a friction point between the nail head and the wheel hub.
Cut a grove at a 45 degree angle into the nail body where the head meets the nail body. That way the wheel hub cannot rub the rough corner of the nail head.
Tip 6. Polish the underside of the nail head, the axle and the TOP of the nail head. To polish the axles, tear the 600 grit silicone carbide sandpaper or crocus cloth into strips. Dip into water and apply pumice and polish until it looks like a mirror. The smaller the diameter (0.75 inch) of the axle the faster it goes.
Tip 7. Use a spare nail to drive a pilot hole in the axle slot. Leave about a 1/4 inch sticking out. The nail must be at 90 degrees to the body. It is very important to drive the nail in straight.
Tip 8. Wheels. Check your race rules. If you are allowed to modify the wheel, cut a vee or undercut the surface to leave a single raised track around the wheel. Most rules prevented these obvious modifications.
It usually takes several wheels to find 4 matched wheels. Starting with the rougher sandpaper, spin the wheel at about 30 percent speed to remove the rough edges and smooth the wheel to a slight curve. Finish sanding with the 0000 steelwool. Polish with rubbing compound. Don't forget to polish the inside of the hub. Clean up the compound with running water.
Tip 9. Use a combination of graphite and molybdenum disulfide ( graphite-moly lube )lubrication. Put a small amount of this graphite in a ziploc bag. Put the wheels and axles in. Work the graphite over all. More rubbing the better.
Tip 10. Install the wheels and axles. Test for three wheels. Using your kitchen counter or dining table, gently roll the car to determine if one of the front wheels does not turn. Three wheels are faster than four wheels.
Tip 11. Wheel Alignment. Faster cars roll straight. Using your kitchen counter or dining table, gently roll the car to determine if it rolls straight. If it does not, turn the axle 1/4 turn to see if that corrects it.
Tip 12. Check for 1/8 inch wheel clearance between the inner wheel hub and the car body. Glue the axles in place. Using elmers white glue, glue the axles in place. Let dry.
Tip 13. Add moly lube graphite into the axle area. Spin, spin, spin the wheels to work the lube into place.
Tip 14. Wheel Hubcaps. Paint if desired the 5/8" dia. Avery Labels to match the car color. When dry, take one of the 3/8 inch number circles that come with the PD kit and place it in the center of the 5/8" dia. avery label sticky side. Put some molylube into the wheel cavity around the hub. Using super glue gel, put a bead of super glue on the wheel edge and apply the hubcap.
The hubcap prevents the wheel from touching the car body and provides a source of lubrication.
Tip 15. Add additional weight to reach 5 oz.
If your lucky dad, your car might win.
Date: Sun, 24 Nov 1996 05:56:19 EST
From: Laurence A Edwards larryradar@JUNO.COM
Subject: Pinewood Derby
To: Multiple recipients of list SCOUTS-L <SCOUTS-L@tcubvm.is.tcu.edu>
Hi Everyone,
I am looking for more ideas on how to make a Pinewood Derby car run faster. This information would be passed on to the scouts (and anyone else who would wants it). I have experimented with some ideas and found them helpful to get a fast car. I've been undefeated now for 2 years, with a legal car. I've been passing the information on to the scouts in the pack and I have always tried my experimental cars before passing the info along. I do not want to be the reason for a scout not to win because the idea had not been tested. If anyone has any ideas that you could pass on please Email me at LarryRadar@JUNO.com.
A few Ideas that I have worked on and perfected.
1) To balance the wheels - use a 8 penny finishing nail, file the nail down to fit into the wheel. (place nail in drill and use a file works great). Once the nail is the proper size for the wheels, use a small washer followed by a rubber washer, then 4 wheels then another rubber washer a large spring and a flat washer and mount in drill.
The rubber washer will keep the nail head from damaging the wheel. Adjust the spring will keep enough tension on the wheels to keep them from turning on the nail. If the wheels turn on the nail, the wheels will be damaged! Use rough (60 grit) sand paper first followed by fine sandpaper. do not apply a lot of pressure with the sandpaper it will cause the wheels to stop and spin on the nail, thus ruining the axle hole.
2) to mount the weights, I router between the axle positions (leaving about 1/4 inch prior to the axles). This allows me to adjust the weights (we use a lead pipe cover from the building supply store, then cut to size and hammer shape as needed). Use 2 brads about 2 inches long through the sides. You can drill a small pilot hole for the brads so they can be removed. Use super glue to keep in place once you have found the position you want.
Laurence Edwards
"The Crazy Cubmaster" of Pack 237
Altamonte Springs, FL
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 07:53:00 -0500
From: Bill Case billcase@ROMULUS.NCSC.MIL
Subject: Re: What is a Space Derby?
On Thu, 1 Feb 1996, Donna Digiovanni wrote:
> Does anyone out there have any experience holding a "Space Derby" for
> their Cub Scout Packs?
Donna,
We've had several in our pack over the past 10 years, but it's never been as popular as the pinwwood derby or raingutter regatta. Some tips I can remember:
- Use an old fashioned hand drill with a big cuphook in the chuck to wind the props.
- Soak the rubber bands in soapy water for several minutes just before flying
- have someone at the finish with some pillows to safely (both for spectators and the planes) stop their travel. We've had several instances where the darn things went so fast that they hit the stops at the end of the wire and either smashed or the upper eye was pulled out and the rocket ship went into untethered flight!
- Adults seem to really like to do this to, so we sponsored a warmup event for any adults who might like to try their hand and had a great response. By the way, Boy Scouts from the Troop helped run the event and THEY made rocket ships, too. EVERYBODY had fun. While we let the Boy Scouts and the adults have a fly-off, we decided not to allow these two groups to compete against any of the Cubs.
- Caution - These light little things can go REALLY FAST. A Cub can really be reduced to tears if some part of their anatomy (usually an inquisitive finger) becomes enmeshed in the propeller.
Bill Case NE-VI-28 THE Capitol District I used to be an Antelope ... Baltimore Area Council District Vice-Chairman for Program billcase@romulus.ncsc.mil
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 08:38:19 CST
From: Jim Sleezer JHS8@VM1.UCC.OKSTATE.EDU
Subject: Re: What is a Space Derby?
We held them several years ago when I was in Minnesota and they were great. Used the local mall as a site and got lots of support from the merchants.
One thing we learned early on was to use ALL three rubberbands. The pack provided the glycerin mix to keep them pliable. We had some hand drills to use as winders. We made it a bit like Cape Canaveral with a big prep area and a railway (taped off walkway) to the launch pad. I had some old Apollo patches that we gave to the winners along with a plastic model to build. A local buffet let every kid with a rocket eat for free after the race (parents paid) and it turned into sort of a "successful launch" banquet.
I understand there are problems with the new kits. Ours were the old balsa ones and worked great.
jim
Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 09:16:59 CST
From: "Runnels, Barry C" Barry_C_Runnels@MMACMAIL.JCCBI.GOV
Subject: What is Space Derby?
Space Derby races are a lot of fun because the space derbies are fast and boys love anything that is propelled by a propeller The derbies are easier for the Scouts to build because they only require a potato peeler to carve out the shapes.
The event requires more adults to participate because the adults first must verify that all the derbies have equal number of number bands then they have to wind up the derbies before each start.
The biggest disadvantage to Space Derby races is each derby requires time to wind up the rubber bands and therefore the Scouts only get to see the derbies race a few times. My son took second place after 5 races in 2.5 hours. At our Pinewood Derby, our Scouts see their cars race 15 to 20 times in two hours. Also, more boys can get involved at Pinewood Derbies races than Space Derbies races because of the complexity of winding up the derbies and attaching them to the wires requires the help of adults.
This does not mean I don't like Space Derbies, infant my son enjoyed building his Space Derby more than his pinewood car because Space Derbies require very few tools, mostly potato peeler and sand paper and he said they are more fun to watch. I am trying to think of ways to get 15 runs for each Scout in two hours time. When I achieve that, we will have a Space Derby race.
If you decide to have a Space Derby Event, bring extra rubber bands because some boys will only show up with one and they run best with three.
Good Scouting
Barry Runnels Cub Master "Mighty" Pack 339 Edmond Oklahoma
Date: Fri, 3 May 1996 02:29:29 -0400
From: Dan Laxson DPLaxson@AOL.COM
Subject: Re: Fishing Derby 4 REGATTA???
IT WAS WRITTEN: "Our Cub Scouts had planned on a Raingutter Regatta for our May Pack meeting, but it seems our kits have been back-ordered for 3-weeks and the council office doesn't know when to expect them. Our Committee liked the idea of a Fishing Derby to replace it, so I've got 3-weeks to figure this out.........."
AN OPTION THAT HAS WORKED GREAT!
Our Pack was broke just after being restarted-the families of the Pack had just as much to spare, so. . . . . .
We went to our local supermarket, the donated large Styrofoam meat trays.
We went to McDonalds (you know, the place with the Golden Arches), they donated straws
We found that we had some colorful paper
AND
The youth cut out boats from the styrofoam trays (Rudders also) The Straws becam masts The paper became sails
THEN WE FOUND THAT THEY WOULD FLOAT!
GUESS WHAT? WE HAD A REGATTA AND THE BOATS WERE FREE!
JUST A THOUGHT, why not do both activities this summer? Fishing Derby AND The Raingutter Regatta!
YIS Dan Laxson former CC and current IH & CR Pack 554 Vanciuver, Washington
Date: Mon, 21 Oct 1996 10:27:50 MDT
From: Carol Breuer CBreuer@VINES.COLOSTATE.EDU
Subject: Re: All Cubs, All Packs Events
Years ago when my son (now 26) was in Cub Scouts, our district did Turtle Races. What that consisted of was making a plywood cutout in the shape of a turtle with a 1/4" hole drilled in the head. The pattern was furnished by the district and fit on a 8 1/2 x 11 sheet. Subsequent years the pattern was a frog and a robot, and all sorts of things could be used to have some variety. The Cubs could paint any way they wanted.
The race was set up by tie one end of a string, probably 8-10 feet long, to an anchor of some sort at a height of about 12" (?). The free end of the string is threaded through the hole in the turtle's head and placed lying flat with the bottom along the starting line. The boy then advanced his turtle by manueving the string, keeping the bottom edge of the turtle in contact with the floor, in such a way that the turtle would partially raise up until the bottom edge advanced, and then lower again along the string until the finish line was reached.
It allowed for parent involvement in cutting the wood, allowed the boy to be creative in painting his entry, and challenged them with how best to manuever their entry along the string. Size was not much advantage, but patience and persistance certainly helped. Everyone had fun with it, and there was even a pack champions race that was held at our District Scout Show.
I can't remember now where this idea came from. I think I remember seeing it in one of activities books that was available at the time. Part of the popularity was due to the simplicity of the whole thing. One of my fond memories of my son's Cub Scouting came the year we used the frog pattern. As we were talking about what he could do to decorate that wood cutout, he looked at it and told me very seriously that it wasn't a frog at all, but a toad. Then he proceeded to paint it grey with brown warts all over, and he had the only toad in the whole pack, and received the prize for the most original frog, er, toad.
Carol Breuer, Fort Collins, CO
Asst. District Commissioner . . . I used to be an eagle, NC-155
Last edited: February 22, 2004
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